An Easter concert – Sainte-Chapelle, Paris

Not many people know that I studied music throughout high school and at one stage wanted a career in that field. Not as a performer – far too shy and definitely not enough talent. Plus, too many competing interests meant I would never be as dedicated to my art as I needed to be for the success that would allow me to make a living.

However teenage dreams fuelled by that much passion never truly go away, and whenever I listen to beautifully performed classical music I still have a pang of nostalgia. While I tend not to listen to as much music these days, my favourite period is still the Baroque era (music composed from around 1600-1750). I love its grandeur, its passion and its primary use of string and percussion instruments. My favourite composers were (and still are) Vivaldi, Pachelbel, Corelli, Monteverdi and Telemann.

So when my aunt emailed to ask if I wanted to go to an Easter concert at Sainte-Chapelle while I was visiting her in Paris, I immediately said YES! And that was before I saw what was on the bill.

Our performance, on Good Friday night, was stunning. The two main pieces performed were Pachelbel’s Canon and Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons. Two of my absolute favourites that just epitomise Easter and Christmas to me (probably because that was when we listened to them the most when I was growing up).

The music was beautiful and the performers really put on a show for us. Their personality shone through as they moved around the very small stage. It was clear the quartet – from the CLASSIK Ensemble, led by musical director and violinist David Braccini – were passionate about the music and determined to enjoy themselves while entertaining the sold out crowd.

I hadn’t previously been to Sainte-Chapelle and was not at all prepared for the emotions I would experience upon entering. Luckily I had packed the tissues.

Of course, being in Paris over Easter with my mother’s younger sister was always going to generate strong emotions. Mum was a very devout Catholic, and Easter was perhaps the most important religious holiday to her. And dad, while not Catholic, was largely responsible for my love of pre-twentieth century music (mum was primarily responsible for my love of The Beatles and The Sound of Music!), and Vivaldi was also one of his favourites. I think he had four or five separate recordings of The Four Seasons. But not the Nigel Kennedy one. Too modern. (Not for me though! I love Nigel!)

They would have both adored this performance and been as mesmerised as I was.

Sainte-Chapelle itself is glorious. Despite being an evening performance on a rainy Paris night, light spilled through the stained glass windows to illuminate the chapel.

Built on the Île de la Cité and consecrated in 1248, Sainte-Chapelle’s initial purpose was to house Louis IX’s collection of religious relics. Today it is famous for the stained glass windows – fifteen glassed-in walls comprising 1,113 illustrated panels. Two thirds of those we see today are original. Words and photos really don’t do it justice. It’s the most spectacular stained glass I have ever seen. And when I was younger I visited a LOT of cathedrals and chapels (dad dabbled in stained glass – I have seen a lot of it!).

Sainte-Chapelle is open to the public to visit year round, but if you have the chance, go to a concert there. It really is something special.

Sainte-Chapelle
4 boulevard du Palais, 75001 Paris
Open daily, except 1 January, 1 May, 1 December, 25 December, hours vary
Entry fee – €8.50 adults
www.sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr

Note: photos taken on iPhone 6.